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Source: ecomedia / robert fishman / imago images

Source: ecomedia / robert fishman / imago images

This also loosens the soil, as the BDG explains. The plants should then be given a new layer of mulch and up to 30 grams of berry fertilizer. If you want to save yourself work and only sprinkle it once, you should use raw compost that is around three to five months old. It is fertilizer and mulch in one, according to Norbert Franke.

In professional strawberry fields, there is usually a two to three centimeter thick layer of mulch made of straw on the ground. This serves a multiple purpose: Strawberries stay dry, which reduces the susceptibility to gray rot. In addition, the mulch layer suppresses weeds and keeps snails away. Picking is also made easier and low-hanging fruits remain free of sand.

Which fertilizer do you need for strawberries

If you want to create particularly good conditions for your strawberries, experts can carry out a soil analysis in the laboratory. The results of such an investigation provide information about which nutrients necessary for the strawberry plants are contained in the soil and which must be replenished in the form of fertilizers. According to aid, the nutritional requirements of strawberries are best covered on weakly acidic soils with a pH value of 5.5 to 6.5. Accordingly, it can make sense to work with acidic fertilizers.

Protect strawberries from disease and pests

The strawberry bushes usually bear fruit for two to three years. Then new plants should be planted or the old perennials should be relocated. However, there should not have been any strawberries in the selected bed for at least four years. This prevents infestation by soil pests such as roundworms.

How it works: Growing strawberries and co. From seeds Do-it-Yourself: How to build a strawberry tower yourself What can you do? Fungi and mold damage the strawberry harvest

Old and diseased leaves of the perennials should also be removed with scissors when preparing the bed, as these can transmit diseases such as gray mold rot. The leaves must not be torn off, as this could damage the plant, warns Franke. Here you will find other fungal diseases and pests that can be dangerous for strawberries and that you should be prepared for.

Sources used: dpa-tmn news agency

Whether individually or as a hedge: The cherry laurel is a real eye-catcher in the garden. But be careful – the evergreen ornamental shrub is also poisonous in parts. What to watch out for when planting, fertilizing and cutting.

overview

LocationGrowthPlant cherry laurelServicesCut cherry laurelFertilizePouringDiseasesPlant cherry laurelPlant parts are poisonousPlant fact sheet

A hedge is much more lively and cozy as a privacy screen than a massive wall or a high wooden fence. However, hedges take some time to grow this tall. Since the cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) grows comparatively quickly and is also quite cheap, it is popular and often planted.

The cherry laurel is also called laurel cherry, as it is an evergreen relative of cherries and plums. In addition, its fleshy leaves are similar to the laurel spice. The home of the cherry laurel is Turkey, from which it came to Central Europe as an ornamental plant.

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Location: No waterlogging

So much in advance: the cherry laurel is not picky about its location. It thrives in sunny, semi-shady and shady places. Only he doesn’t like it so much in the deep shade under tall trees. The ornamental shrub also has low demands on the soil: it can even cope with sandy or loamy soil. It just doesn’t tolerate waterlogging.

Vigorous plant

Most varieties grow very quickly. An increase of 40 centimeters per year is not uncommon. In the long term, however, the ability to grow will become a problem in many a garden. The cherry laurel can be up to four meters high and three meters wide.https://123helpme.me/argumentative-essay/ This may not be an issue on a 2,000 square meter property – but it is in a row house or front garden.

Cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus): The ornamental shrub is often planted as an evergreen property boundary. (Source: ecomedia / robert fishman / imago images)

Instead of being used as a hedge plant, the cherry laurel is also suitable as a solitary wood. For example, it can be made into the shape of a large sphere or a cuboid. It can also thrive in the tub on the terrace.

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Plant cherry laurel

The willingness to grow should be taken into account when planning. Because: The final expansion of the wood also determines the planting distance. This should be between 80 and 100 centimeters. Although the cherry laurel can be planted all year round, spring or autumn is recommended. Here are some things to look out for.

Step 1: Dig a planting hole that is twice the size of the root ball itself – so that there is enough space for the cherry laurel. Step 2: Insert the root ball and fill the planting hole with a mix of excavated soil and humus-rich compost. Step 3 : Tap the earth around the planted cherry laurel well so that no cavities can form around the root ball. Step 4: Water the ornamental shrub abundantly and then sprinkle a layer of bark mulch over it. It keeps the moisture in the soil and supplies the cherry laurel with important nutrients right from the start.

Cherry laurel varieties

Over the decades a large variety of varieties has emerged through selection and breeding. The different cherry laurel specimens differ both in shape and in their foliage:

CultivarLeaf characteristicsHerbergi black-green, egg-shaped Mano bronze (later: dark green), small, narrowMount Vernon matt green, elliptical

Cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus): The ornamental shrub bears creamy white, candle-like upright inflorescences from May to June. (Source: Star-Media / imago images)

Others are diverse in their habitus:

CultivarGrowth formCherry Brand, Mount VernonflatRotundifolia-dense, bushy, uprightZabeliana-straight to slightly sloping branches

Cut the cherry laurel

It is advisable to shape the cherry laurel with hand hedge or loppers. The reason: Motorized shears can usually not cleanly cut through the large leaves of the plants. A generous pruning in early spring is a good start to the new season. In addition, a cherry laurel hedge can be pruned from the end of May to the beginning of June and one last time at the beginning of August.

Our tip To avoid fungal infections or sunburn, the cut should not be made on days that are too wet or too hot.

Fertilizing: No more from August

Horn shavings or horn meal are suitable for fertilization. You should supply the cherry laurel with these at the end of March. From August onwards there should be no more fertilization, otherwise the cherry laurel will again develop strong leaves shortly before winter. Their soft tissue can easily freeze to death.

Giessen: Even in winter

Cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus): The evergreen ornamental shrub does not lose its leaves even in winter. (Source: Chromorange / imago images)

Cherry laurel needs special attention in the cold season. Because the plant is thirsty even at low temperatures, as it constantly evaporates moisture through the evergreen leaves. As soon as the ground is open on frost-free days, the shrub can be watered. In the case of long periods of drought or sandy soils, an extra dose of water is essential.

Our tip The lack of water is obvious at the latest when the cherry laurel has yellow or brown leaves. Then you should take countermeasures immediately.

Common diseases

Fungal diseases such as downy mildew or powdery mildew and shotgun disease often occur. You can recognize the latter by the perforated leaves with red-brown spots. Downy mildew shows up as yellow spots on the upper side of the leaf and white deposits on the underside of the leaf. Powdery mildew is only a coating on the upper side of the leaf.

Shotgun Sickness: How To Prevent It In The Garden

Infested leaves should be cut off and discarded. The location also often determines how susceptible plants are to diseases. Too much moisture promotes fungal infections.

Propagate cherry laurel

The ornamental shrub can be propagated on the one hand by cuttings and on the other hand by sowing. Propagation by cuttings, which occur, for example, when pruning, works much faster and easier. If you want to grow cherry laurel from seeds, proceed as follows:

In autumn, take the seeds out of the ripe fruits and let them dry. Let the seeds swell for several weeks at around four degrees. Then place them in a seed tray, which you have previously filled with a mix of sand and garden soil The best way to keep the seed trays is in an unheated stairwell at consistently low temperatures. After germination, move the seedlings to a cool but light spot. When the seedlings are several centimeters tall, plant them in small pots filled with potting soil. In autumn put the small cherry laurel plants outside.

Caution: parts of plants are poisonous

Cherry laurel is not entirely harmless. All parts of the plant, especially the leaves and seeds, contain poisonous glycosides. When seeds or leaves are chewed and swallowed, hydrogen cyanide is released in the stomach. The fruits, on the other hand, are even prepared in many regions. In Turkey, for example, laurel cherries are used to make jam or they are processed into dried fruits.

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Plant profile

Cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) Location sunny, semi-shady, shadyEarth-sand, loamy, no waterloggingFertilization in March with horn shavings / flourPouring regularly, also in winterPreparation of cuttings and sowingCutting in early spring with hedgerow or branch clipping agency Show

Roses need care so that they grow well and bloom for a long time. This also includes pruning. A simple rule of thumb is how much to cut and when.

overview

When to prune roses? Pruning: multi-year or this year’s wood? How to prune roses correctly? How much are roses pruned? Individual pruningHow often should you prune roses? Should you prune roses in autumn?

She is considered the queen of flowers: the rose (Rosa). Most varieties show their flowers from June and then bloom into late summer. A prerequisite for this is correct pruning.

When do you cut roses?

When exactly you need to use the secateurs depends heavily on the local weather conditions. Instead of a specific date, rose owners should therefore rather orientate themselves on the remaining vegetation: When the forsythias are in bloom at the latest, it is time to cut the rose.

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Cut back: wood for several years or this year?

The cut depends primarily on whether the rose is blooming on perennial wood or on this year’s, i.e. on the shoots that only grow in the course of spring.

The pruning of the particularly popular hybrid and bed roses is essential. Because, unlike climbing roses, for example, they only bloom on this year’s wood. So only the young and fresh shoots develop a flower.

How to properly cut roses

First of all, you should use sharp scissors to avoid crushing the wood. First, remove the sick, dead and inward-growing shoots. This is followed by the actual pruning. Follow these steps:

Basically, cut on an outward-facing rose eye. This is the point where new shoots appear as it grows. Make the cut about half a centimeter above the eye. Make sure that the cut itself is at an angle and about half a centimeter above the chosen eye. Set the scissors but only slightly at an angle to keep the cut as small as possible – just so that raindrops can run off and the moisture does not let the open cut surface rot.

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How strong are roses cut?

A simple rule of thumb applies to the intensity of the pruning: weakly growing rose varieties are pruned heavily, strongly growing ones are less pruned – even if it sounds irritating at first.

Because: the harder you cut a rose, the stronger the new shoots.

If you observe this law of growth when pruning, you can train your roses to the desired growth shape: A strong pruning that only leaves three to four eyes on the main shoot promotes the development of fewer, but longer and stronger shoots.

Pruning roses in the garden: In order for roses to bloom profusely in summer, they need to be pruned in spring. (Source: Loop Images / imago images)

Conversely, the rose grows bushier if only slightly pruned, leaving six to eight eyes on the main shoot. More shoots are formed, but these grow thinner and shorter.

Individual pruning: budding is crucial

Weak budding

In addition, you should make the amount of pruning dependent on how vital the individual rose was in the previous year. This means: If a rose has only developed a few weak shoots in the last year, it is cut back vigorously.

The less old wood the already weakened plant has to supply, the easier it is for it to sprout again. If the rose does not develop anyway, root or nutrient problems are usually to blame. The plant should therefore get a little more compost and fertilizer.